Necktie



H. WQLF NEQKTIE Filew DEC.

3 Sheets-Shee lill/urli' Dec. 30, 1930.

NECKTIE Filed Deo. 28, 1928 3 Sheets-Sheet v2 H. WOLF NECKTIE Dec. 30, 1930.

' Filed Dec. 28, 1928 3 Sheets-$11681. 5

yl'wemecl` Dec. 3o, 1936 PATENT arios d HARRY WOLF, OIOIIIOAGO, ILLINOIS, AssIeNorv To CUTTER-GROSSETTE COMPANY, or CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION OFILLINOIS NECKTIE Application mea December 2s, 192s. serial No. 328,899.

. This invention relates to improvements in neckties of the four-in'hand type andmethvods of making the same and has for its main obj ect to produce a neclitie wherein the outer Y5 fabric, such as bias cut silk, is so associated with lining material as to render the outer fabric and lining each cooperative with the Y other to prevent distortion of the materials by the strains and stresses imposed thereon 10 and cause eachof the two materials to coopi when tide.

' As to the method comprehended within the invention as distinguishedl from the article, the main Object of the invention resides 1n first associating a piecey of lining Of an areaV suiiicient' for an appreciable number of ties with an equally large piece of outer fabric and'thereafter cutting the associated lining and' fabric into blanks of size and shape required for the assembly of the latter into completed ties.

The invention is illustrated in the accompanying Vdrawings wherein: l Fig. l is a plan view showing a piece of fabric suchas is customarily used for the Y outer'or visible portion of a tie and a piece of lining material of a suitable type secured thereto. Y y

Fig. 2 is yalplan view of av blank for the production of a tie cut from the associated fabricsshown in Fig. 1. y Y v. ,l Y

r Fig. 3 is a plan view showing the two pieces cut from the blank of Fig.y 2 ,associated and the edge portions of the outer fabric hemmed preparatory to completing the tie.` l Fig. 4 is an enlarged transversesectional view on the line 4 4 of Fig. 3.

i Fig.` 5 is a rear elevation of a completed tie constructed in accordance with this invens tion.

Fig. 6 is an enlarged transverse sectional view on the line 6 6 of Fig. 5.

Figs. 7 and 8 are views similar to Fig. 3 illustrating other or modified embodiments of the invention.

Fig. 9 is a transverse section on the line 9 9 of Fig. 8, assuming the latter to be in finished condition as exemplified in Fig. 5 as to the structure of Figs. l to 6, inclusive.

In the manufacture of neckties in accordance with the present invention, I employ the conventional type of outer fabric which is furnished in certain lengths by the mills, each piece being bias-cut at its ends in order to obviate waste.

' Lining material of a suitable character, such as loosely woven wool fabric, is purchased by the bolt and bias-cut into pieces corresponding in length with the outer fabric pieces or cover fabrics or casings of neckties, the lining material being of less width than the outer fabric material.

Thus a piece of the lining material l is laid yupon the reverse or back-face of the piece 2 of` outer fabric material, which I shall hereafter term silk, so that the sideV or self-edges of both pieces l and 2 are paral lel and the piece l is disposed substantially midway between the side edges of the silk 2.

The pieces l and 2 are now secured together in any suitable manner but I have to datev found no meansother than blind-stitching to be satisfactory and, consequently, I prefer to employ a gang-needle blind-stitching machine to join the pieces l and 2 which serves to attach the lining without rendering the Y stitches 3 visible from the Outer or visible face of the completed tie.

The associated pieces 1 and 2 are now cut into the 'conventional type of necktie blanks 4such. as is shown in Fig. 2 and this blank is then cut along the dotted line 5 to produce the two blanks 6 and 7 of Fig. 3 which are then attached by stitching together by the line of stitching 8.

The lining elements of the necktie blanks of Fig. 3 are now trimmed away along one side suiiciently to leave an edge portion 9 of woe Vce

i silk onlyand incisions 10, 11,12, and 13 usual finish.

cut into the edge portions of the silk, Vthe said incisionspermitting'the unlined free end kp0rthen' joined by suitable stitching 18 tothe silk along the opposite edge VVof the blank though'this stitching 18may extend through l thelining edge at this point. This stitching may be'eifected by means of a blind-stitching machine or in any other suitable manner,

lattention being directed totheV fact that'becauseof the liningbeing so intimately associatedwith the silk, these ties cannot becom- VVpletedor y.pratically completed With the lining disposed'on the exterior and then turned as is customarily. done in necktie manufacture' 'wlien thefsilk structure per se is firstl completed, then turned andthe lining then `inserted and securedfin place. 1 It will be obvious that byjreason of the necesary bias-cut of the silk, the'liningybe- V`cause of its position on the silk,.is also biascut-butnoappreciable advantage other than economy of material results from. thuscutting the lining. In the structure of this application the lining is intended and adaptedtoiprevent stretching of the silk vlongitudinallyof the completed tie to anyggreaterf Y elasticity of the lining. it will remain .more`l Veri-tent than the lining because practice hasV clearly demonstrated that if the silk is stretched beyond the limit of .sellffrestoring or less'permanently.distorted and cannot be.

' YIii-the above structure, I employ a thinlrestored to lnormalcondition .by the lining vbecause the silk is,1in every instance. known towapplicant, farv more resilient lthan Ythe .lining unless the latter islalsolsilk cut on the` bias. v

lshavefalso foundfin practice that the selfrestoring characteristic ofthe silk is the main factor in the self-.restoration of the tie to normal condition since ther` silk, especially in the above described structure, Yserves to restore lthe lining to normal condition.'-

ner lining than is ordinarily vused because Y ythere is noA advantage 'from the .standpoint Y Vo`f .self resto ration {inusing a thick lining Whilethe use of the latter Would'be disad- Y heavier lining.

, fvantageousf-in. rendering the tie 1toobulky. .The thinner lining is "also very advantageous in thfatit Vvvill offer less resistance'to restera- V tion by the silk than `would athicker or.

v. V @bviously'a lininggm-ateri-al Which-has a 7` tendency toward Vself.--restorationA from` aV The essentialcharacteristicof the tie of my invention consists, therefore, in such an association of the silk and lining -as Will serve to prevent any relative movement betweenthese lparts Within the area cove-red .bythelining .As this partof the tieisfprao.A

tically ithe.: .only part that is Ysubjected vto stresses and creases When' forming and during the time that the knot of the tie remains,

it is unnecessary to extend the lining beyond the `area shown.V

In Figs. 7, 8,' and 9, I .have illustrated'einbodiinentsV ofV thel invention from apurely structuralv standpoint 'differing 'f'rom that shown in Figs.f1 to 6 inclusive, the embodiment of Figg including the same outer or silkV structure to which alining stripcomlpris'ing. a bias-cut piecef`1'91intheflarger or knot portion is secured'by means of blindstitching as best shown in Figi'. This piece 19 is ofthe Width of the said klarger end portion of thel silkbody between the side 'folds or creases indicated by the reference numerals 16 and 17in Fig. 3. The'length-.of this piece 19 is suchthat itfe'Xtends from-the usual terminal point near the freeendof the 'larger portion of they silkbody to a point adjacent that at Which the largerend or knot portion of Vthe body merges into the'- neckband or middle .portion of said silkybodyfAt the last-named end the'piece 1 9 is stitched to one end'portion Yof the strip 20 of .lining Whichis not bias but lis straightl cut and yextends through .the neck-band and into `the sin/aller end .portion ofthe silkbody,the strip '20. overlapping the strip Vv19 'for a distance ofthree or four inches. .'Thiscomposite strip of'lining is preferablylirmly secured to the silkbod'y by means. of a .plurality of blind-s'titch `chains .21 which may be limitedltoonly the biasc'ut portion 19. Obviously, the composite. lining 19420 is cut and coupled separately vrfrom the Vcutting and joining the two lportions of the Ythickness permitting the use 'of heavier'y lining 'material or. reducing the bulk incident to 'the use of a Wider lining suchas is `shown.inligs 1to'6 inclusive, v 5y v yThe'structure of Figs. v8;-'and 9V is more nearly 'identical with that `of iF-igs. 1 to. 6.- in that the-lining piece 22jfor the largeroriknotend portion 0f the silk structure is; -of j the same Width as thesimilar portion of the lining of-Figs. 1 to 6. This piece 22isalso cutseparately from thefsilk-and'before being mounted on- Vthe latter by means of blind-.stitching is ice i Y middle portion of said lining by means ofy stitch-chains 24. It will be noted that inv creased alongvits edge portions and the lianges 23 thus produced are stitched to the thestructure of 8 the blind-stitch chains 25 pass through the middle portion 'of the piece 22 between the stitch chains 24, the

w flanges 23 being left free-,because of the difficulty lof securing thesame to the opposed v `portions of the silk body composing the rear wallof the tie. VThe strip 26 of lining for ythe neck-band and smaller end portions of the silk body is identicalv with the strip 2O of Fig, 7 and overlapsthe stitchedlining piece 22 and its flanges/for a distance of three to four inches. Y v

I have found the. folding and stitching of the piece 22 of Fig. 8 to be very advantageous Y as the wool lining material tends to bulge between the stitch-chains 24 and the folded side edges to produce somewhat elliptical tubes which arevadvantageous in adding to the ,Y

gracefulappearanceof the tie when worn.

y The overlap ofthe 'lining pieces 20 and 26 l respectively tend tdreduceV the resiliency of the pieces 19'and 22 respectively, and add to if the bulk of the body at the top or inner end of the knot portion.` In some instances a loose strip of bias-cut ywool lining is added which Yextends substantially from one end of the tie to the otherto add to the bulk of the structure. I prefer to employ a wool or silk lining material because of the greater tendenv cy of these fabricsfto self-restoration to initial condition when the tie is not worn, the wool lining being preferred tothe silk because it is cheaper. A Y Y I claim as my invention: Y y The method of making neckties which includes the spreading -ofa piece of lining mate? rial over a piece of Vouter biascut silk fabric, the side edges of the vlatter and the lining 'v being substantially parallel, then attaching the lining to the outer fabric over substantially theventire area ofthe lining, then bias cuttingthe lined` fabric into conventional blanks, then arranging and joining the cut y' upon completing the tie.

blanks to form a complete tie blank, and

thereupon trimming away a side edge portion ofthe liningkto leavera free edge portion of A'silk to permit hemming and stitching to# gether of opposite side edge portions of the V,outer fabric free of the said lining, and therekHirRRY WOLF. 

